c'est cheeky

As I posted on Instagram this morning, I will be twenty-six years old young in just one month. It's crazy how many transformative experiences I've had, inside and out, since last year's stressful entrance into my mid-20s. Dare I say I'm quite ready and willing to embrace the next 365 days? Surely a master's degree (and almost two years in Paris) have equipped me with some capability at life...

By the way, I'm using my upcoming birthday to legitimize an early June departure from the City of Lights. No longer will I be able to enjoy the under-26 discount at Parisian museums nor on European trains. And how I could I possibly stand for such absurdity?

That said, Lorelei, Lou, and I's visit to the Maison Européen de la Photographie (preceeded by a La Caféothèque coffee date) was unforgettably special in a very simple my-friends-are-the-loveliest kind of way. I was especially impressed with the Martin Parr, Luciano Castelli, and Bruno Mouron/Pascal Rostain exhibitions, as well as the poetic words by Fouad Elkoury above (translated).

le plat du jour

Though I do sometimes enjoy restaurant meals with friends--and love to photograph and write about them so as to relive the special occasion, I mostly cook for myself. Breakfast at home is simple: banana oatmeal; muesli with yogurt; yesterday's toasted baguette with butter, raspberry preserves, and a handful of almonds. Lunch and dinner are, too. I get into seasonal routines, cooking for one.

This past winter, the dish above was a favorite of mine. Broccoli and carrots were oh-so plentiful! And I'd make a dozen of these falafels at a time. Recently however, I've been changing the à la maison menu for spring's vegetables. This sautéed zucchini with feta cheese, capellini/penne with garlic, olive oil, lemon [and spinach], and this roasted asparagus, parmesan-poached eggs have been parfait. Up next, ratatouille with chickpeas. Have any go-to meals to share? La cuisine and I can always use more inspiration...

whatta snob

You know what gets to me? The distinction between high and low culture. The former tends to be accessible to (and acceptable for) a select few, those who can afford it with either education or wealth. I don't like it. This may stem from the fact that I happen to very much enjoy museums, literature, theater, poetry, classical music, wine, and haute cuisine, and understand such tastes do not bring about superiority. I also appreciate street art and dive bars. As such, one of my favorite things about Paris is the frequency with which exhibitions and performances are advertised around the city, right alongside posters for blockbuster movies and popular concerts. I pointed it out to Leslie to support my 'blurred line' theory. Culture instinctively adopts a more democratic spectrum.

Stumbling across photography exhibitions in parks like the Palais-Royal (or any public space, really) doesn't hurt the cause either. Nor does knowing the loveliest opera singer and classical harpist. They both work with a chamber music organization and invited me to an affordable Cocktails and Conversations recital a few weeks ago. The spectacular combination alone secured my RSVP, ha.

The performances by musicians from around the world was phenomenal. As was the space itself. Marissa just reminded me how much I'd like to return to the Finnish Institute for coffee actually. The caffeine would support thesis dedication and enjoyment of my limited-time-only 'under 26' status a.k.a. free/discounted entrance to most cultural venues. Je ne suis pas snob (<--too funny).

soon-to-be on holiday

It's been... a week. PageYourself entered the big leagues and I spearheaded the prep and celebratory efforts en anglais. Exciting, huh? Stressful, too. I've been more than hoping for a holiday (in the UK-sense, thus, a vacation). And since I haven't gotten away since August, even a 48-hour change of scenery will suffice. Luckily, I have friends like Lara with family in Brussels who invited us to visit this weekend. Jackpot. One day, when I'm no longer living in Europe, I'm going to miss the ease with which I can now hop across borders. I mean, just look at the infographic below. Even overworked, overtired, and uninspired Brits seem to have it made:

Talk about Superbreak City Breaks! Luckily, there are options for US-based friends, too :) fellow students can win a stay in Europe and everyone can afford to get outside more. May I also suggest playing tourist in your own city? It's what I've been trying to do in Paris as my time here decreases--although I won't graduate until May, thesis research will keep me in New York and London for a while... not that I'm complaining, of course. There'll always be "stuff," but life can be an awfully great adventure when we let it be.

soup & sweater weather

It always amazes me how quickly the season progresses. Tomorrow is officially October, leaves are continuing to change color, and more and more squash is available at the market every weekend. Have I told you I've officially made it a ritual? I've been frequenting markets throughout Paris since I arrived, but I haven't made the weekly commitment to my local one until now. It makes me feel rebellious as Phyllis Flick just shared a survey reporting that only 13% of Ile-de-France residents (those living in the greater Paris-area) shop in markets. Sadly, most are missing out on the one-of-a-kind sensory experiences and neighborly encounters.

Not to worry though! I've been loving the sh** out of the orchard apples for them ;). I've also been helping myself to cruciferous veggies, and was recently inspired to make my favorite lentil soup. Yay, kitchen! When it really starts to get annoying, please tell me to stop raving about how much I love having a space to create real meals, okay? For now, I'm just going to go with it. Clearly.

I started the same way my mom and Giada do, by sautéeing the vegetables (onions, carrots, celery) in a large pot with oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. About 8 minutes later, I added a can of diced tomatoes. Then stirred for another 8. I added lentils (~1 pound) and chicken broth after, and finally, brought the soup to a boil before leaving to simmer for roughly 45 minutes with fresh thyme sprigs.

I served my first bowl of lentil soup alongside a glass of red and a hunk of baguette des près, my most recent (heartier and grainier) French bread obsession. And, oh my gosh, it was wonderful! Soups--and most one-pot meals for that matter--are just delightful. Even after eating, I was left with two "free" lunches and another healthful dinner later on in the week. Looking forward to making this one, this one, and maybe even this one next. As of tonight though, I'm all about words and wine with Lisa, Juliette Sobanet, and more. I honestly cannot get enough of this season's produce and plans. Life feels so gosh darn good right now.

chez gladines

I'm fascinated by the Basque region. Mostly because it's at the intersection of French and Spanish culture, and having studied both languages, I think it'd be amazing to experience what that's like. It's also one of the few regions of France I have yet to visit. Following Lindsey's tweets from her Basque vacation reminded me of this fact... and I've never been more sure of wanting to change it soon. It also reminded me I have to share my taste of Basque cuisine with you! Chez Gladines is an experience worth sharing.

The first thing to know: they don't take reservations. The restaurant is bustling with neighborhood locals and bobos "in the know" so expect to wait a bit. My beau and I each had a glass of rioja at the bar while they cleared our table for two; which turned out to be two narrow places facing each other at a long communal table. The ambiance was anything but romantic, yet it was a welcome change from the usual; convivial, incredibly laid back, and quite loud. We conversed with our neighbors on either side.

And the food is cheap! By Parisian standards, at least. Hearty, too. We first shared an appetizer of patates au jambon de pays (iPhone-pictured above--I would've hardly had the space to take a real photo had I had my camera with me) that surely could have been a meal for one. I then enjoyed a humongous bowl of salad made less healthy better with fried potatoes, cheese, eggs, and lardons (bacon), while he dug into a specialty of Poulet Basquaise. Neither of us could fathom ending with dessert.

We left full and in an even better moods than when we'd came. Chez Gladines is just that kind of place. If you're dining in Paris on a budget (with cash to spare--they don't take credit cards) and craving a simple French meal beyond the classics we know and love, please try it for yourself. As the weather transitions from summer's heat waves into autumn's cool breezes, I know I'm hoping for round two. Fingers crossed I'll have the opportunity to enjoy the cuisine du Sud-Ouest in the region itself someday as well.

how to afford a summer in paris

Times have been tough. Remember when I took myself out to lunch on Fridays and frequently met up with friends for food and drink? Me, too... fondly. I'm on a much stricter budget now that I live in a legitimate apartment. Federal loans only stretch so far, especially after such a fabulous break at home. The list of Parisian delicacies I can enjoy are limited to: 1-euro fresh baguettes, seasonal market produce, and prix-fixe lunch menus only once or twice a month. How I suffer so ;). In all seriousness though, I really do have to be more careful about how I spend my money. Paris is not a cheap city, and even 5-euro pints of happy hour beer add up fast. I might be depending on free events to get me through. Even with an internship paycheck, I doubt I'm going to be able to afford a real vacation.

But who needs a vacation when you live in Paris, right? (Raises hand). With that said, for those who don't already have the luxury of residing here, studying abroad in the City of Lights may very well be out of the question. Unless, of course, you receive help.

Recently, I was contacted by Paris Study Center, L3C to spread the word about their discounted prices on studying abroad in Paris. The potential students are only required to qualify for regular program admission and be considered economically disadvantaged by their FAFSA applications. There's no shame in accepting aid to pursue your dreams, my dear! It's what I did. If you're interested in learning more, or know of someone who might be, please contact Ayana Burroughs at contact(at)parisstudycenter(dot)com.

food and wine at m&s

You may have noticed things have been quieter around here lately. I blame my awesome 9-7 job internship (not even being sarcastic) and my fried brain after 10 hours of internal French-English translation. Please forgive me. And hopefully you'll extend your empathy towards the introduction of featured posts, too? I vow to always blog ethically and only accept content from brands I support.

On my last visit to London, one of the agencies we visited showed us a recent project with Marks and Spencer. It was my first encounter with the British retailer and I've had a crush ever since--due in no small part to its luxury food products. It was also where I killed time before my Irish date and grabbed dinner to-go before hopping on the Eurostar. Ah, memories...

In travelling throughout Europe, many tourists, and even locals, make food a top priority. Food and wine can certainly make up much of a traditional European vacation, and it's no wonder given how many of the region's most popular vacation destinations tend to emphasize taste. But for those who don't have the flexibility to travel for food, or to eat out all the time, one alternative that is gaining popularity is ordering food and wine online--ready to be heated and served.

Specifically, Marks and Spencer has gained steam as a very impressive online source of food ready to order. Though it is perhaps known more widely as a clothing store, M&S offers a wide range of products across genres. The food and wine section, in particular, has become one of the best and busiest. Aside from ordinary grocery shopping, here are a few of the particular perks and services you can take advantage at through M&S Food and Wine:

• Party Food: Whether you're throwing a casual backyard get-together, a formal event for the office, or a last-minute soirée, M&S has your catering option. Feast on anything from sushi rolls, meats and cheeses, selections of sandwiches and other finger foods. There endless possibilities make it a cinch to throw together a thoughtful party.
• Wine Cases: If you're more interested in ordering wine than food, M&S has a diverse selection of different vintages from, literally, all over the world. "Mixed cases" feature different varieties to stock up your perfect collection.
• Personalized Cakes: The bakery section of M&S is perfect for a variety of occasions with the options for themed and personalized cakes. Whether it's a themed cake for a child's birthday, a decorated wedding cake, or simply a well-chosen selection with a message in frosting, M&S has the baked good for you. 
• Seasonal Ingredients: Finally, the M&S food section also takes advantage of fresh seasonal ingredients. In the summer, that might mean anything from fresh berries and salads, to grilling ingredients to prepare in bulk. Throwing a picnic or cookout for friends gets a whole lot easier.

Words by Tim Morris, food blogger and freelance writer. Photo by D.Alvarez (from my birthday)

how to stop shopping

Spending my college junior year abroad influenced me in a lot of ways; but perhaps the most significant is how good I became at not shopping. Having to eat out on weekends and wanting to travel then too made me more aware of my finances than I ever had been. I didn't wish to "waste" money on clothes and cosmetics like I had so easily before. Not to mention that I had such limited room in my suitcases, especially including gifts.

Shopping just wasn't a priority. And, it fell out of habit as a pastime. I've held onto such a mindset ever since.

{Appertizer: escargots de Bourgogne belle grosseur, buerre maison: a l'ail et au persil}

Why? Well, for one thing, I've never had a lot of money. I graduated from Syracuse University with debt and then went on to small internship/freelance paychecks. Yet I was always conscious of how important it was for me to learn more about the world; in my case, tasting new cuisines and visiting new places, both of which are ideally experienced with friends and family. I'm not alone in that either. Science has proven that, "experiential purchases, such as a meal out or theater tickets, result in increased well-being because they satisfy higher order needs, specifically the need for social connectedness and vitality--a feeling of being alive."

So, how? Know what you're saving for.  In this New York Times article, Ms. Liebmann of WSL Strategic Retail said, "before credit cards and cellphones enabled consumers to have almost anything they wanted at any time, the experience of shopping was richer." It's not necessary to stop spending all together (though that is an option, especially for those of us in extreme debt), but to be more critical about what it is we spend our money on so we can enjoy it more. A short-term example: before my friend's sister came to visit, I ate all meals at home so that I'd be able to afford to partake in the classic Parisian brasserie experience.

{Main dish: quenelle de brochet artisanale, sauce Nantua}

Buy from the list, quickly. Of course there are times when we do need particular things that can only be found on store's shelves. I tend to approach these situations with shopping lists as well as a time constraint. Without an extra 30 minutes to browse the aisles and/or racks, there are less chances for me to make compulsive purchases. By default then, I stick to basics and necessities. Such a big money saver!

Refuse to invest in remorse. No good will come from feeling bad about spending money, I promise. In this Fast Company article, Cali William Yost advises: "Make purchases that improve your happiness." Though I certainly understand the importance of savings accounts, more often than not, we work hard to use the money we make. That's why it's so important to do so wisely. In the past few years, for instance, I have always bought myself an outfit on my birthday. I can afford it as a single (not married, no children) twenty-something. And it's become a ritual I appreciate and look forward to. I'm thinking Naf Naf this 29th :).

{Dessert: baba au rhum, creme chantilly et glace rhum-raisin}

Anyway... shopping has been on my mind as I wrap up the second of three term papers. My topic? Critically analyzing how our roles as citizens have been reduced to those of consumer-advocates. There's a sense that we vote with our wallets, the "neoliberal assumption that capitalism itself can cure societies' ills," (Anderson 2008) and sadly, in most cases, it hasn't proven effective yet. Although I'll continue to choose ethically when I can, I've decided to actively try to participate in causes I care about, not simply purchase a logo that says I do.

what's a bobo?

A bourgeois-bohemian, of course! I'll admit I only became familiar with the term since living in Paris. David Brooks, author of Bobos in Paradise, defined bobos as "highly educated folk who have one foot in the bohemian world of creativity and another foot in the bourgeois realm of ambition and worldly success." In reference to the French version, The New York Times explained: "Bobo takes over where the old Mitterrand-era label "gauche caviar," or caviar socialist, left off. Less political and more materialistic than that group, French Bobos design their lifestyles in a mix that includes the rarest luxuries, middle-class classics, senior citizen string-collecting strategies and student-style cheap 'n' chic." Quite the classification, huh?

Especially as I apparently live amongst them. While researching my post on Joséphine Caves Parisiennes, I found a negative review which read: "someone in the 17th has told their friends that there is a cool underground rock club on rue Moret and they are bringing their HSBC gold cards in droves." Ahem. Though I recognize the privilege I have to be pursuing a master's degree in Paris, please know that I am living completely on loans and only have flexible spending money because I reside in a true chambre de bonne. And, 9/10 times I brunch on the weekends, I do so at my neighborhood 3 Pièces Cuisine.

            

This casual, retro eatery is both cool and cheap in the 17ème. For only 11€, half the price (or more) of most Parisian brunches, I regularly enjoy noisettes, juice, a croissant or pain au chocolat, quiche/tarte/tartine with salad, fries, and/or a baked egg... plus a housemade dessert. It is fantastic (and filling) fuel for an afternoon of studying, even without "the best" coffee. Maybe one day I'll be confident enough in my French to check out their happy hour; according to one Parisian twenty-something I recently met, 3 Pièces Cuisine becomes a pretty fun bar, too, bobo or not. Cheers to the weekend and happy Cinco de Mayo to you!

dining in

In a final attempt to save more money (since I leave for Reykjavík and then Paris in less than a month, eek!), I've decided to skip this summer's Restaurant Week. It saddens me a little because I love dining out and affordable gourmet meals... but mostly I just feel oh-so-proud of my financially responsible self. Plus, my friends and I have found a fabulous alternative: dining in. Revolutionary, I know.

[aperitif: cucumber-infused vodka, club soda, bitters, ginger syrup]

[appetizers: olives, pancetta bread, dinner ingredient-play as we prepped...]

[dinner: Stone Barns sourdough bread, arugula salad with fennel and apple, fresh pasta with roasted tomatoes, mozzarella, and shredded parmesan]

[dessert: cupcakes—(clockwise from top) carrot cake, tiramisu, red velvet]

Following our delicious meal, complete with wine and the Olympics, we primped a bit and headed out to our favorite neighborhood bar. And wouldn't you know, the entire experience felt very "French" to me.  Four years ago, during my second visit, I went out three times with Marie and her friends. Each evening progressed the same: meet at an apartment, cook dinner together, leisurely enjoy the meal, venture to a bar for a final drink or two, bid adieu, go home, sleep soundly. According to her, this fun, economical ritual was how they usually socialized. Here's to hoping it rings true in my own experience as a student in Paris!

the bubble lounge

With refined tastes and a modest income, my classiest experiences either happen by serendipitous chance or by well-thought-out deal planning. Last night's was courtesy of the latter. Elaine and I met at The Bubble Lounge for a Champagne Toast for Two: two flights of champagne (three pours) and one cheese plate to share. It was spectacular; not since I was actually in Champagne have I delighted in such high-quality bubbly, both cheeses were divine, and the impressive service was anything but Tribeca-pretentious. Gosh do I love Gilt City.

Enjoying refuge from the incredible summer storm, we took our time savor the ambiance and decided to order another small plate to simulate more of a complete dinner. Behold, out-of-this-world "sweet garlic stuffed duck meatballs served in a demi-glace sauce with fig purée and sriracha chili":

The evening continued, as they do whenever we're together, and we ventured to Jimmy, a sophisticated rooftop bar atop the James Hotel featuring overpriced cocktails and wealthy businessmen. We didn't last long. Escaping to Toad Hall next, we eventually enjoyed a nightcap beer and a literal game of telephone. 'Twas a great night.

moules frites

I've posted about East End Kitchen before, and with good reason--it is the most convenient, good restaurant in my area. And with time, they seem to be doing more and more things right: Every Monday and Tuesday, for instance, they offer bottles of wine half-priced with any dinners; weekend mornings bring their fabulous brunch special; and Sunday evenings are for $15 burgers with fries and beer, fish & chips and beer, or mussels with fries and beer.

My roommates and I got ourselves all psyched up for the deal last Sunday. I was fully prepared and ready to have a beer (or two), fried fish, and french fries for dinner. Unfortunately, when it came down to it, I realized I didn't want a meal like that at all. I wasn't actually that hungry. Not to mention that my body was exhausted and undernourished from a weekend of careless fun.

So, I listened and had their Grilled Eggplant salad (chickpeas, baby arugula, asparagus, lemon-cumin dressing) instead. Meh.

It's not that it wasn't good, but I was disappointed. I couldn't even handle one homemade donut bite for dessert. As much as I believe it's important to do (and consume) things that make us feel our best, sometimes I'd just like to eat what I want to eat, when I want to eat it. Next time! Wishing you a balanced weekend.