west end lite

According to visitlondon.com, West End has a fantastic range of theatres, tourist attractions, hotels, shopping, and iconic streets. I had little desire to spend any time there (as I insist on not being a "tourist"), but! catching up with the lovely Daisy de Plume was a must.

After that full day in East London, I nearly slept in until our lunch date at Bea's of Bloomsbury. What a treat--both sleeping in and lunching with her. And though I may have stumbled through a bis exchange (gosh darn reassimilated American!), Daisy, the kind soul and adorable pregnant momma that she is, didn't seem to mind.

Following our date, I ventured over to the nearby Charles Dickens Museum to spend my time wisely while waiting for Rachael.

Yes, I'm aware this move made me a tourist. So be it! It was raining again and I'm quite the fan of Oliver Twist.

To continue with the touristing, Rachael and I went on to have cream tea at Soho's Secret Tea Room. And as we finished up our last bites of scone with raspberry preserves and clotted cream, we looked into theaters and well-reviewed plays nearby.

Then we ran over to purchase last-minute tickets to The Play That Goes Wrong. We got lucky with great seats at a very discounted price. To celebrate, Rachael and I clinked glasses of champagne before going in to laugh our asses off at the Dutchess Theatre.

And laugh our asses off we did. My empty stomach was sore by the play's end! To remedy the situation, and cap off a spontaneously hysterical evening, Rachael and I made yet another fabulous decision to late night-dine on fancy fish and chips at The Ivy.

It was the most perfect British send-off. The next morning I boarded a train to Amsterdam to visit my brother and Lorelei...

a day in east london

The following morning, I awoke bright and early to brief blue skies. (England is such a tease). I was feeling great, well-rested and sprightly, with a false sense of not-jet lag. Rachael and I decided on a very loose East London-themed itinerary for the day. I texted my sister to invite her and however many of her roommates to join us. They promised to meet us at the Bethnal Green tube stop.

But first, coffee. Rachael and I strolled over to Quarantacinque to pass the time as Deanna and friend made their way east. This tiny Italian gem served some serious caffé as well as sweet and savory bites. We stood at the counter (as Italians would) to wait for our caffeinated drinks and one delectable ham and cheese croissant; and to gawk at pretty much the most amazing wallpaper:

The barista told us the graphic coffee leaf wallpaper was bespoke for the space. What a gorgeous backdrop.

Later, while meandering back towards the tube stop, I had to remark how "normal" everything felt. I hadn't and I still don't really know London, and yet it, made sense for me to be there. There was an of course-ness to my mild ignorance. I felt at ease in my role as an outsider, and stimulated in my ability to observe, learn, and blend in. I was so distinctly aware of it all.

Months before, when Deanna was with me in L.A. (which I must also eventually reminisce with you about!), I admitted to her how much I missed being special (read: an expat). I missed the challenges and gratifications. There's a very particular satisfaction that comes with making a new normal work for you; living it sharpens your appreciation for where you are, and where you came from.

Anyway :) with all that in mind, I gleefully set out with Rachael, Deanna, and Jamie to "do" Hackney. First up: Hackney City Farm.

After vegetable gardens, sheep, chickens, and donkeys, we walked up to the site of Broadway Market. Though it wasn't a weekend day, and thus market-less, the street itself had quite a few shops and cafés. I nearly bought a vintage book. I still think I should have.

An hour or so later, it really started to rain. We hustled through London Fields and into Sutton House--a worthwhile stop.

And from there, Well Street Kitchen. Brew for Two would've been more convenient given the pouring skies, but they were closed due to flooding. (Point taken). We didn't care once lunch was served anyway. My leek & celeriac soup with pancetta was beyond.

When the rain finally did let up, we left our empty bowls, plates, and tea cups (so British) to mosey over to Hackney Wick. There was some killer street art as we got deeper into the industrial area; an awesome recycled clothing store, too, and the cozy Crate Brewery.

Inside, we enjoyed late afternoon brownies and beer--it's just what one does in the company of four when she realizes she wouldn't rather be anywhere else but in this gorgeously dreary city with her sister, so young, open, and brave, and her tenacious friend, tirelessly carving out a life of passions with such grace in yet another foreign city. There were big thoughts on that first full day.

As the sun set, Rachael and I parted ways with Deanna and Jamie. (Note to self: live closer to your sister, soon). We returned to Rachael's flat briefly before heading out to Paradise Garage for a late dinner. She'd heard great things.

Feeling especially indecisive and slurge-y, we opted for the tasting menu a.k.a. the best produce, meat, fish, and cheese (un-pictured). Then we had a palate cleanser, shared our dessert choices, and finished off with homemade blackberry marshmallows. We decided it was one of the best meals we'd had all year. Special occasions like that one (spending an entire Wednesday together again) have become fewer and farther between as we've moved to new places with demanding full-time jobs, less friends, and more debt. She most definitely deserved it. I'm hoping I did, too. We had one last digestif with the devil before calling it a night.

from lax to heathrow

Taking a 12-day Western European escapade felt incredibly indulgent. It probably was. But, my gosh, reason and guilt be damned.

It was amazing, and hard, and good, and so unbelievably clarity-inducing. And now, we shall re-live it in all its real life glory.

My flight was direct (and long) from Los Angeles to London. I must've been exhausted upon landing, and yet... I was far too concerned with reuniting with Rachael. The lovely lady was kind enough to meet me at the airport and lead me back to her flat for a much-needed shower. Then, we set out to check off the one thing on my touristy London to-do list: visit the Tate Modern.

Although I found half the galleries to be exceedingly broad in curation (the opinion of a total non-expert), I really, really enjoyed our visit. And not just because it was totally free. And not just because I was there with Rachael. And not just because we had to walk through certain parts of the collection twice in order to get a good look at them since we were appropriately too focused on catching up with each other on absolutely everything. That said, all those other parts were pretty damn wonderful, too.

We finished at the museum just as it was closing and set out to meet my sister for dinner. As I mentioned, Deanna is studying abroad. As I hadn't mentioned, she moved into her Notting Hill flat (with five roommates!) four days prior to my arrival--eek.

Thanks to Freya, I knew of a perfectly convenient spot for dining: The Churchill Arms, where Irish beer and Thai food are plentiful.

Once I'd devoured five spring rolls, a full plate of pad ped, and bites of everyone else's meals After eating, we stopped by my sister's cozy flat. I was thrilled at the chance to see where and with whom she'll be living for the next few months. Oh, to be 20 again!

From there, my heart and tummy full, I followed Rachael to two of her favorite haunts in Shoreditch: Callooh Calley and Happiness Forgets. How I managed to drink cocktails at each bar without passing out atop a bar, I may never know. Adrenaline is magic.

Fast forward to about midnight, however, and I was sound asleep in Rachael's flat with the help of a trusty sleeping pill. Touché, first day. Stay tuned for more on the joys of a 9-hour jet lag. I miss it already.