second set of visitors

When you're moving to a city like Paris, everyone is going to visit you. Then, they don't. It's not that these people weren't being genuine in their intentions, nor that they don't want to be (they do--mostly because they miss you, but also because it's "the City of Lights") trouble is, flights are expensive, traveling is expensive, and taking off a sufficient amount of time from work is not always an option. I understand completely.

So when my mom and sister came in November, I was overwhelmed with gratitude. It was challenging to juggle grad school with visitors, but giving two of the most important people in my life a glimpse into the life I'd made here was certainly worth it. I savored every moment. It was just what I needed before wrapping up my first semester, taking a weekend getaway to Prague, and heading home before the holidays.

Whereas hosting family is wonderful thing though, hosting friends is another. There's something uniquely special about connections between those with whom you have no true obligation. And for that, I cannot even begin to express to you how thankful I am to have friends who keep in touch, who make it a point to visit.

Anna and Leslie arrived early on Friday afternoon. After meeting them at Gare du Nord, I led them back to my neighborhood where we grabbed a late lunch at L'Auberge Rouge (my favorite) and had front row seats to a car being towed across the street. Then I introduced them to ma chambre de bonne (and the six long flights of stairs it takes to get to it). We took a little while to rest and refresh before heading out again.

That evening, we walked around the 6th, had a cocktail aperitif at Le Pub Saint-Germain, and followed it with galettes and crêpes alongside cups of cider at my now favorite crêperie in Paris.

Fast forward to Monday. They set out for La Cinématique française and Cité nationale de l'histoire de l'immigration, while I began my second semester of grad school. (I'm just excited about this round of classes as I was for the last, by the way... and still a nerd). In between, we met up for "the best" croque madames.

 

Later that night, I introduced them to the guy I've been dating. 

In the midst of seamless conversation at my favorite wine bar, Le Garde Robe, we shared two bottles of  wine, a platter of charcuterie, another of cheeses, a beautiful array of vegetables, and a slice of chocolate cake. 

Oh, and he was approved (woo)! 

I had classes Tuesday as well, but only in the morning and early afternoon. Afterwards, I met them at a closed Centre Pompidou (boo) and introduced them to the heaven that is merci. It was especially appreciated in the rain and gloom that is most of Parisian winter weather. For dinner, we planned on the Palais de Tokyo.

Unfortunately, a haute couture party disrupted our plans. Instead, we ended up eating light meals at a random brasserie before heading into my favorite beer bar, La Fine Mousse; it could've been worse :).

Wednesday (my weekday off this semester) began with French breakfasts at my local boulangerie.

Our day continued as follows: a late morning visit to the Musée Carnavalet,

an entertaining and hearty two-course lunch at L'Auberge Flora near the Bastille,

an afternoon of shopping through vintage stores and designer boutiques in the Marais, 

treats to go (a.k.a. the best macarons) at Pierre Hermé in Gallerie Lafayette,

and finally, after our plans were rearranged because of a sensitive stomach and another (!) haute couture party at my favorite Lebanese restaurant, Rimal, an unexpected 12-dish mezze at a discounted price.

Thank you, Anna and Leslie for an absolutely incredible week.

As for everyone else, please stay tuned for a recap of our weekend in Marrakech. It's worth the wait! :)

never have I ever

With my countdown to Paris at a mere 6 days, I've been thinking more and more about my future there. My graduate program requires a thesis or for-credit internship in the final semester and I have yet to figure out which one I'd prefer. My only comfort is that at least I know what direction I want to go in, kind of.

Before I studied abroad in Strasbourg, France, I'd never had Lebanese food. And before I moved to Paris for graduate school, I'd never pursued a possible future with an international philanthropic organization.

{vegetarian mezze}

I don't think it's a coincidence that the majority of my friends have careers in which they're directly helping people--whether it be through medicine, research, journalism, therapy, non-profits, etc. I seem to be attracted to those who do good in the world. It's surprising I never believed myself to be one of them until now.

A few months ago, my advisor noted how my educational path thus far has been unique since I started out so speciality-focused and am only now broadening my study horizons. He's right, but I can't imagine it having gone any other way. Although my professional degree is in magazine journalism, travel seminars exposed me to human rights in a whole new light. Even before then, in high school, I hosted exchange students and participated in leadership programs. And thanks to Girl Scouts, I've volunteered for most of my life.

{mint tea}

Not to mention the need for good work: Polio is still an epidemic in three countries. There is only one book per 300 children in some low-income neighborhoods in the U.S. One in seven girls in developing countries marry before the age of 15. Worldwide, 1.7 billion people live in poverty and 800 million people live without clean water. The American Red Cross responds to 70,000 disasters each year. (Statistics from this month's Marie Claire.)

Last semester, I had the amazing opportunity to intern at UNESCO. It was such an experience to work with people from so many different countries with such impressive professional backgrounds. And to be honest, most of the time, I feel that way in the company of my fellow grad students. Though notably younger, each one of us came to Paris with unique portfolios and inspirational motivations; like the birthday girl from the special occasion dinner above. I look forward to seeing where 2013 takes us.

to move or to stay

That is the question. I have fallen in love with my neighborhood and I feel more at home in ma chambre de bonne than ever, but it is truly an imperfect situation.

Not having a complete bathroom to myself is one thing; in all honesty, I despise cleaning toilets so it's almost a luxury to not have to do so. But not having a complete kitchen? Hmph. Although I prefer simple meals and raw vegetables, one day soon I'm going to want to make soup, or cook... anything, and that is a challenge here.

Then again, I do adore my view. How lucky I am to have a landlord as sweet and understanding as mine is, too. And frankly, it's nice to save money on an apartment, especially when I spend quite a lot of time out and about in Paris whether for school or fun. Any advice? It's a tough decision, and I just want to make the right one...

lessons from long pond

It's almost funny that last year, when I first experienced Long Pond, I needed the weekend getaway. This time around was no different. As I alluded to earlier, there's some family stuff to deal with; in addition to expected pressure of the Parisian countdown--pressure to enjoy everyone and everything while also working incredibly hard to save as much money as possible. I needed to take a deep breath, preferably in nature, and just be in the company of great friends. I'm so grateful to have been able to do just that last weekend. This is what I learned:

Anna makes a mean egg salad.

Local, fresh-picked berries are the ultimate "working vacation" snack.

This UFO-ish thing is kohlrabi, a cruciferous vegetable like broccoli; eat it raw or cooked.

Beer o'clock is better with your feet in the water.

 

Fresh tuna is fantastic on something as simple as Triscuits.

Sassy Gay Friend is a bonding, after-dinner experience.

Sunsets are prettier over water (but I kinda already knew that).

A morning walk/run/hike is better with a filling breakfast beforehand.

 

The third book in the Hunger Game series is a great lying-in-the-sun read.

 

Dock picnics make lunch more fun. Avocado hummus is recommended.

Paddle boarding is almost as challenging as it looks, but it's easy to pick up.

Uncle Frank is hilarious; invite him(/her) on your next booze cruise.

That "weird pea thing" is an optional but delicious side dish to dinner al fresco.

When possible, "townie" ice cream is a must.

Brunch = a specially-prepared, late breakfast meal enjoyed amongst others.

 

It's no wonder Anna is such an amazing host, so is every other member of her wonderful family. Thank you all for such a perfect weekend!