a day in east london

The following morning, I awoke bright and early to brief blue skies. (England is such a tease). I was feeling great, well-rested and sprightly, with a false sense of not-jet lag. Rachael and I decided on a very loose East London-themed itinerary for the day. I texted my sister to invite her and however many of her roommates to join us. They promised to meet us at the Bethnal Green tube stop.

But first, coffee. Rachael and I strolled over to Quarantacinque to pass the time as Deanna and friend made their way east. This tiny Italian gem served some serious caffé as well as sweet and savory bites. We stood at the counter (as Italians would) to wait for our caffeinated drinks and one delectable ham and cheese croissant; and to gawk at pretty much the most amazing wallpaper:

The barista told us the graphic coffee leaf wallpaper was bespoke for the space. What a gorgeous backdrop.

Later, while meandering back towards the tube stop, I had to remark how "normal" everything felt. I hadn't and I still don't really know London, and yet it, made sense for me to be there. There was an of course-ness to my mild ignorance. I felt at ease in my role as an outsider, and stimulated in my ability to observe, learn, and blend in. I was so distinctly aware of it all.

Months before, when Deanna was with me in L.A. (which I must also eventually reminisce with you about!), I admitted to her how much I missed being special (read: an expat). I missed the challenges and gratifications. There's a very particular satisfaction that comes with making a new normal work for you; living it sharpens your appreciation for where you are, and where you came from.

Anyway :) with all that in mind, I gleefully set out with Rachael, Deanna, and Jamie to "do" Hackney. First up: Hackney City Farm.

After vegetable gardens, sheep, chickens, and donkeys, we walked up to the site of Broadway Market. Though it wasn't a weekend day, and thus market-less, the street itself had quite a few shops and cafés. I nearly bought a vintage book. I still think I should have.

An hour or so later, it really started to rain. We hustled through London Fields and into Sutton House--a worthwhile stop.

And from there, Well Street Kitchen. Brew for Two would've been more convenient given the pouring skies, but they were closed due to flooding. (Point taken). We didn't care once lunch was served anyway. My leek & celeriac soup with pancetta was beyond.

When the rain finally did let up, we left our empty bowls, plates, and tea cups (so British) to mosey over to Hackney Wick. There was some killer street art as we got deeper into the industrial area; an awesome recycled clothing store, too, and the cozy Crate Brewery.

Inside, we enjoyed late afternoon brownies and beer--it's just what one does in the company of four when she realizes she wouldn't rather be anywhere else but in this gorgeously dreary city with her sister, so young, open, and brave, and her tenacious friend, tirelessly carving out a life of passions with such grace in yet another foreign city. There were big thoughts on that first full day.

As the sun set, Rachael and I parted ways with Deanna and Jamie. (Note to self: live closer to your sister, soon). We returned to Rachael's flat briefly before heading out to Paradise Garage for a late dinner. She'd heard great things.

Feeling especially indecisive and slurge-y, we opted for the tasting menu a.k.a. the best produce, meat, fish, and cheese (un-pictured). Then we had a palate cleanser, shared our dessert choices, and finished off with homemade blackberry marshmallows. We decided it was one of the best meals we'd had all year. Special occasions like that one (spending an entire Wednesday together again) have become fewer and farther between as we've moved to new places with demanding full-time jobs, less friends, and more debt. She most definitely deserved it. I'm hoping I did, too. We had one last digestif with the devil before calling it a night.

tipples in montmartre

Paris weather has been back to its old tricks again: clouds, sun, rain, sun... mostly clouds. As such, it hasn't taken that much discipline to hole up in my apartment (or a café) and studiously make these final edits and formatting changes to my master's thesis. The end is so near I can almost taste it! Until then, I'm limiting spring fun with friends. Besides birthdays. And THATrue prizes.

Last Saturday afternoon, I ventured up to Montmartre for my first event with The Chamber. Gâteaux Mama had laid out the most gorgeous spread of port-poached pears on stilton walnut crackers, herbed madeleines, deviled egg salad in sesame cracker cups, lemon shortbread, brown butter brownies, and lemon-rosemary olive oil tea cake. Forest Collins (of The Chamber and 52 Martinis) kindly served champagne cocktails as well. As to be expected with lovely company and aforementioned treats, great times were had. Last weekend was an especially good one, huh? Here's to hoping knowing those in May will follow suit. I'm gonna miss this city.

parisian cravings

I don't often get cravings. Sure, I need to consume chocolate on a daily basis and occasionally am really in the mood for pizza or pho, but otherwise, I'm simple to please. Until I desire "American" comfort foods, that is.

Because it's not pancakes nor burgers I want then, it's my mom's grilled cheese... or anything from New York City's Momofuko, or Oakland's Bakesale Betty, or Seattle's Paseo. 

Admittingly, the last three are only recent developments. It's only since lunching at Verjus that I've become the least bit familiar with the tastes of those three restaurants that so instantly reminded me of home.

On my first visit, I met the boy for a scandalous weekday lunch. In other words, he had a day off of work, I was finished with classes early, and we ordered alcohol with our meal, ha. He chose a Black Isle Brewery beer with a Mr. Chang's Buns sandwich: braised pork belly, steamed chinese buns, hoisin sauce, pickles, scallion.

I, on the other hand, opted for a glass of red wine with a Bakesale Betty sandwich: Verjus' fried chicken, Morgan's buns, cabbage slaw with shallots and parsley, spicy mustard vinaigrette.

It was everything I'd hoped it be and more, and a welcome change from the standard ham baguette.

And for dessert, (because though the sandwiches were American-inspired, we were still undoubtedly in Paris and thus dessert was included in the prix-fixe menu), we both thoroughly enjoyed a cheesecake brownie.

Dare I say it was perfect? Although the wine bar itself is hardly one of my favorites, I will be back around lunchtime for a 15€ sandwich, dessert, and beverage. Now that the end-of-semester/term-paper/final-exam-induced stress is officially settling in, I could use the American comfort more than ever.

better french

Classic French food is often characterized by words like rich, hearty, fancy, and complicated. It can be. And as such, I only have it so often. I've found more than one neo-bistro serving lighter (and in my opinion, better) alternatives though. A little over a month ago, for instance, Edna, Milsters, and I dined at Restaurant Miroir.

The bistro itself is tucked into a small side street in Montmartre, just steps away from the gritty Pigale metro. It's otherwise unassuming, but once inside, we found that it was both cozy and sophisticated. And best of all? They serve an 18€ lunch menu. In the midst of easy conversation, I enjoyed a popover-like amuse bouche , red wine, crusty bread, white fish over celery root purée with yellow beans, and un petit café with chocolate mousse, a brownie bite, and an almond cookie. It was delicious, and such a steal.

Yesterday afternoon, in contrast, I met my favorite professor for lunch at a simple brasserie. Beef with shallots, a side salad, and potato gratin sounded like a tasty idea, but afterwards, I felt horrible. A sinus pressure headache, chills, and full-body achiness soon followed. By the time my Valentine came over to pick me up for our romantic evening (with flowers, by the way), I was ready to go... but knew I shouldn't. We ended up staying in with dim sum and a movie. I fell asleep early, and didn't eat a thing. Today, I skipped classes and hardly feel 100%. I really need to get better soon! We leave for Rome tonight.

only in new york

This past weekend was my last in New York--at least until June at which time I'll be running from my sister's high school graduation (already? I know!) to my friend's wedding (already?! I know, ha.)

To make sure I enjoyed it to the fullest, I first cooked. My Parisian kitchen is rather limited a.k.a. stove-less so preparing a dish for the potluck dinner was a real treat. I peeled and sliced 6 parsnips and added them to a buttered dish with sliced onions, gruyere, shredded kale, and sprigs of thyme.

Then I poured over a heated mixture of heavy cream, minced garlic, salt, nutmeg, white pepper, flour and more thyme. I topped with gruyere and a pinch of nutmeg before covering the dish and placing it in a preheated oven at 400 degrees for 50 minutes. Later, at Leslie's, I baked it for another 20 minutes uncovered.

Behold, parsnip gratin. It was delicious. You can get the full recipe at feasting at home by clicking on the link.

Once prepared, I carefully placed it in the car and drove to Brooklyn for, as I've said, another potluck.

There, I enjoyed three kinds of homemade hummus (plain, sun-dried tomato, and pesto), along with a yogurt dip, kale salad, glazed carrots, and my parsnip gratin. Five other even-lovelier-than-the-tasty-food-they-brought ladies were present. And for dessert, we were all about the red wine chocolate fudge brownies.

Later that night, I subway-ed over to Manhattan to crash my grand little's birthday party. What fun!

I awoke Saturday morning, exhausted, and drove home; making sure to stop in Queens along the way.

Why? Well, to see Miss Katie, of course! And brunch at a charming Greek restaurant that serves omelettes with fries, and toast, and salad, and a complimentary mimosa for only $12. 'Twas a busy wonderful 24 hours.

So as soon as I arrived at my parents' quiet house, I relaxed, and then slept "forever". All I did on this lazy Sunday was see a fantastic movie with my Mom, and only now am about run out to meet friends for a glass of wine. I cannot wait to be back in Paris next weekend, but gosh, there is nothing like being home in New York.