fall break in bretagne, part 3

As the sun set in Plagasnou (please read part 2 if you haven't yet), Marie and Amy took one last hike along the water while I stayed inside with a migraine. It's a shame they let those through customs, by the way; I would've preferred to leave them in the U.S. Thankfully it lifted after napping for a short while. By the time they were back and showered at 8pm, I too was ready for dinner. Marie wanted crab. 

We drove all the way to Corncarneau to appease her and answer my oyster craving. As we had the night before, we split a bottle of white wine and each ordered off the prix-fixed menu. Entrée: oysters & snails; Plat: catch of the day; Dessert: red fruit tart.

We slept in the next morning. Then, we had breakfast, cleaned up our cottage, packed up the car, and headed south to Morlaix for the Sunday morning market.

The entire town was out and about buying fresh produce, fish, breads, flowers, homemade honey, vintage books, and even clothes. Click here for more photos.

But, within two hours of our wandering, it started to rain. When I'd told any French person I was going to Brittany over break, they'd told me two things: it's beautiful, bring an umbrella. A few additionally suggested I enjoy as many crêpes as possible. So, in perfect crêpe-feasting weather, we went to La Crêpe Enchantée.

Like many crêperies I'd been to in the past, they offered an economical lunch menu: local cider, a savory galette, and a sweet crêpe.

I enjoyed a spin on a traditional galette complet by having goat cheese instead of gruyere or emmental. And for dessert, um... do you see that crêpe above?! Divine. In addition to butter cookies, this region of France is famous for salted caramel and sweet butter; two main ingredients which paired delectably with baked apple.

I left Morlaix with the biggest smile on my face. I'd eaten extremely well, seen some beautiful places, spent time with two of my favorite people, and oh my how those days of relaxation were necessary. And the final amazing part? Feeling like I was on my way home as we drove back to Paris.

fall break in bretagne, part 2

Now where was I? Ah yes, a sunset drive to Plagasnous. If you're just catching up on the fall break recap, please feel free to read part 1 first.

It took about two hours to drive from Mont Saint-Michel to the guest house we'd rented. and we were only hungry upon arriving... at 9pm... in a small French town.

We were so lucky to find Les Chaises open. Not only because it was the only restaurant in the area still serving dinner, but because they serve one heck of a meal. We shared a fantastic bottle of white wine and each ordered off the three-course menu. For me: les rillettes aux saumon, the catch of the day with ratatouille, broccoli, and wild rice, and le mousse au chocolat. Delicious and affordable at 24 euros.

After dinner we retreated to our cottage to play French board games. My favorite was a French-version of charades. Amy, Marie, and I are a crazy bunch, I tell ya :).

The next morning, we awoke well-rested to a well-stocked kitchen. We'd brought Bon Maman preserves from the breakfast buffet at the hotel in Rennes in addition to fresh pears, local yogurt, butter, tea, and, of course, a baguette. Then, we hit the beach.

It may not have been warm enough to go swimming (even if Marie did take a dip anyway) but the views were no less beautiful in the autumn chill.

 

We walked and drove across the coast for quite a while. There was no reason to go back to the cottage! That is, until we got hungry...

Many of the local crêperies were closed for the holiday so we took matters into our own hands. We made a stop to the grocery store for the essentials: galettes (or buckwheat flour crêpes), country ham, emmental cheese, and fresh eggs.

I also insisted on spinach for some greenery. As it rained outside we each enjoyed two crêpes with the cider our host had so graciously provided us. 

In other words, lunch was perfect. Stay tuned for oysters and day 3: more crêpes, a sunny market visit, and tea and cookies at Marie's great aunt's home!

fall break in bretagne, part 1

As a result of more pressing (and, let's be serious, important) matters like the American presidential election and Hurricane relief in New York, I've failed to update you on the adventures of this past weekend. Not to worry, the time has come. I'd intended to visit Marie for my fall break, but when she instead suggested a getaway to Brittany, a northwest region of France, I couldn't refuse; crêpes originated there.

On Wednesday evening, Marie picked up Amy, a fellow grad student and I from the corner of Paris. Our first destinatinon: Rennes, the capital of the region and the hometown of Marie's former flatmate (who'd also come along for the ride). Upon arrival we went straight to bed, but on Thursday morning, despite the fact that mostly everything was closed for the holiday, we explored.

 

By noon though, we were on the road again. There was a very beautiful rocky island with a monestary on the agenda...

Behold, Le Mont Saint-Michel.

Climbing towards the absolutely stunning monestary for which the tiny island is known, we stopped into one of the many restaurants for omelettes and cider. I had mine with house-smoked salmon. Service may have sucked (kind of a lot) but it was pretty darn tasty, and so with full, happy bellies we continued up.

The view was incredible and the inside architecture wasn't too shabby either.



Following our lovely and free (I love being a student) visit, Marie and I couldn't resist investing in the quintessential Mont Saint-Michel souvenir: les galettes de la Mère Poulard. This biscuits, otherwise known as butter cookies, carry on "the ancestral tradition" of the famous cook and her "traitional sugar crust biscuits." And afterwards, we were treated to views of the island at sunset:

It was 6ish by the time we got back to the car, but thanks to our late lunch, we were satiated enough to directly continue on our way. Stay tuned for our stay in Plagasnous! And please, if can, try to pronounce it. It was literally as cute as it sounds.