obrigado

They say your twenties are for being selfish. They fail to mention, however, how much living abroad amplifies the tendency. As much as it embarrasses me to admit, I'm not entirely looking forward to going home. I'm afraid to face the imperfections of the rest of my reality with the research timer on my master's thesis set and my Parisian life on pause. But, on particular days like this one, I'm especially reminded to appreciate these self-centered concerns. Because, really... how blessed can someone be to have loved ones unconditionally support her ambitions, to enjoy time and space to study her passions, to belong to more than one place? And, to celebrate her favoritest holiday multiple times before reuniting with family for the next two in New York. I'm thinking, very.

I met Phil and Tiphaine once, at the Kinfolk gathering; and for some reason they were kind enough to invite me to join in their Thanksgivukkah! Last Saturday, Sandra and I adventured south of Paris for a most unforgettable Franco-American feast:

Upon arrival, they served home-barrel-aged cocktails: a warm autumn punch made with bourbon and cider (my pick), and a seasonally spiced Negroni. Guests trickled in from near and far as the buffet table crowded with their generous contributions. To nibble during meets and greets, we helped ourselves to endive with blue cheese and local walnuts and wild rabbit rillette on toast.

Eventually, the Thanksgiving-Hannukah meal was served: green salads, latkes with apple sauce, deep fried/smoked turkey, stuffing (southernly referred to as "dressing" because it was prepared outside the bird), green bean casserole, lobster macaroni and cheese.

We digested with re-pours of wine until we were ready for dessert. My Belgian chocolate was nothing compared to the homemade pecan pie, chou au chantilly et potiron (pumpkin cream puffs), and an unexpected berry cake. Coffee, champagne, and a local porter aged on Fernet Branca barrel chips were served alongside. Phil and Tiphaine are obviously the best hosts in the whole wide world.

Eight hours later, I headed back to Paris with plenty of gratitude and leftovers. And I'm already excited for tomorrow's "Anksgeeving" dinner with grad school friends. Although I'm most definitely sad to miss my family's annual fête, I'm thankful for this new tradition, too. Oh! By the way, obrigado is Portuguese for "thank you." I'm especially fond of it because it's so similar to the Spanish abrigo (coat) and abrazo (hug). Happy Thanksgiving, friends! Let's embrace all that significance and share our gratitude generously:

• Donate to disaster relief in the Phillipines.
• Create a care package for a local homeless shelter.
• Send season's greetings to a military veteran, service member, or family.
• Recycle an old cell phone for global health.
• Make Thanksgiving possible for those less fortunate.
• Knit a scarf for a college student in need.
• Smile at a stranger; hug your parents; call an old friend; compliment a loved one; say merci, and really, truly mean it.

second set of visitors

When you're moving to a city like Paris, everyone is going to visit you. Then, they don't. It's not that these people weren't being genuine in their intentions, nor that they don't want to be (they do--mostly because they miss you, but also because it's "the City of Lights") trouble is, flights are expensive, traveling is expensive, and taking off a sufficient amount of time from work is not always an option. I understand completely.

So when my mom and sister came in November, I was overwhelmed with gratitude. It was challenging to juggle grad school with visitors, but giving two of the most important people in my life a glimpse into the life I'd made here was certainly worth it. I savored every moment. It was just what I needed before wrapping up my first semester, taking a weekend getaway to Prague, and heading home before the holidays.

Whereas hosting family is wonderful thing though, hosting friends is another. There's something uniquely special about connections between those with whom you have no true obligation. And for that, I cannot even begin to express to you how thankful I am to have friends who keep in touch, who make it a point to visit.

Anna and Leslie arrived early on Friday afternoon. After meeting them at Gare du Nord, I led them back to my neighborhood where we grabbed a late lunch at L'Auberge Rouge (my favorite) and had front row seats to a car being towed across the street. Then I introduced them to ma chambre de bonne (and the six long flights of stairs it takes to get to it). We took a little while to rest and refresh before heading out again.

That evening, we walked around the 6th, had a cocktail aperitif at Le Pub Saint-Germain, and followed it with galettes and crêpes alongside cups of cider at my now favorite crêperie in Paris.

Fast forward to Monday. They set out for La Cinématique française and Cité nationale de l'histoire de l'immigration, while I began my second semester of grad school. (I'm just excited about this round of classes as I was for the last, by the way... and still a nerd). In between, we met up for "the best" croque madames.

 

Later that night, I introduced them to the guy I've been dating. 

In the midst of seamless conversation at my favorite wine bar, Le Garde Robe, we shared two bottles of  wine, a platter of charcuterie, another of cheeses, a beautiful array of vegetables, and a slice of chocolate cake. 

Oh, and he was approved (woo)! 

I had classes Tuesday as well, but only in the morning and early afternoon. Afterwards, I met them at a closed Centre Pompidou (boo) and introduced them to the heaven that is merci. It was especially appreciated in the rain and gloom that is most of Parisian winter weather. For dinner, we planned on the Palais de Tokyo.

Unfortunately, a haute couture party disrupted our plans. Instead, we ended up eating light meals at a random brasserie before heading into my favorite beer bar, La Fine Mousse; it could've been worse :).

Wednesday (my weekday off this semester) began with French breakfasts at my local boulangerie.

Our day continued as follows: a late morning visit to the Musée Carnavalet,

an entertaining and hearty two-course lunch at L'Auberge Flora near the Bastille,

an afternoon of shopping through vintage stores and designer boutiques in the Marais, 

treats to go (a.k.a. the best macarons) at Pierre Hermé in Gallerie Lafayette,

and finally, after our plans were rearranged because of a sensitive stomach and another (!) haute couture party at my favorite Lebanese restaurant, Rimal, an unexpected 12-dish mezze at a discounted price.

Thank you, Anna and Leslie for an absolutely incredible week.

As for everyone else, please stay tuned for a recap of our weekend in Marrakech. It's worth the wait! :)

forever france and family

It's been six years since a French girl named Marie-Gabrielle lived with myself and my family. Whereas I see her often nowadays, the same is not so for my mom and sister.  Her and I got planning as soon as she heard they'd be visiting me here in Paris :) she hadn't seen them since she was in the US four years ago.

Saturday, 8pm: an array of classic French appetizers including foie gras de canard, escargots de Bourgogne, salade d'endives au Roquefort; seemingly bottomless glasses of red wine; multiple plates of steak frites; 4 coffees; 2 shared desserts; at the timeless Parisian Bouillon Chartier. 

Saturday, 9:40pm: strolls through the many covered passageways in 9th arrondisement.

Saturday, 10pm: a "Paris by Night" tour led by her extremely knowledgeable parents.

Sunday, 12:05am: a late-night house tour of their home in Melun before bed.

Sunday, 9:30am: an at-home breakfast of coffee/tea/hot chocolate, orange juice, croissants/pain au chocolat/chausson de pomme/baguette, butter, preserves, vanilla cream.

Sunday, 11am: a festive Fontainebleau market visit, complete with pain d'épices samples.

Sunday, 12:30pm: a tour through the royal then imperial Château de Fontainebleau.

Sunday, 1:50pm: salad-heavy lunches at La Taverne (it was our surprise treat, finally!)

As you can see, Marie and her parents really outdid themselves; especially since they're already so consistently good to me each time I'm in France. Us Alvarez ladies were beyond appreciative. And afterwards, we had just one whole day to spend together back in Paris. We made it count... to be continued...